Mike Kraus: Spanish Expedition - Barcelona, Spain

WELCOME TO

BARCELONA, SPAIN!

Our eyes are finally starting to adjust to the Spanish sun (even if the light blocking ability of our glasses aren't nearly strong enough). Still a bit too far north for swimming for us. Didn't stop others who I assume were Russian and Scandinavian.

Checking out the El Born (or La Ribera) neighborhood. This is the Santa Caterina Market (https://www.mercatsantacaterina.com/) with it's colorful roof. Completed in 2006, it apparently took so long to build that people started to refer to it as "The Hole of Shame."

The Santa Caterina Market was build on top of the ruins of a monastery. These are some of the original foundations.

The Chapel of Marcus (La Capella d'En Marcús) was constructed about 1166 outside of the city walls. It was part of a complex to house travelers coming from France and a hospital for the poor. It also served as the headquarters for the first postal system in Europe. It was named after Bernat Marcús who oversaw the whole operation.

Passeig del Born is a wonderful little boulevard to wander through. "Born" is Catalan for "joust." And this street is where horse jousting took place in medieval times. This is also the site of the executions during the Spanish Inquisition.

The El Born Market opened in 1876 and operated until 1971. Today, it's the El Born Cultural and Memorial Center (http://elbornculturaimemoria.barcelona.cat/en/the-center/). Much of the interior is an archaeological of Barcelona as Philip V attacked in 1713-17 in the War of Spanish Succession.

Fossar de les Moreres is a site of a mass grave of those who died during Philip V's Siege of Barcelona during the War of Spanish Succession. Afterwards, Catalonia was dissolved and the Catalan language was banned. Therefore, this is a site of Catalan pride today.

Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar (Saint Mary By the Sea) (http://www.santamariadelmarbarcelona.org/home/) started construction in 998. But earthquake, riots, and wars have taken its toll on the structure. The most amazing part of the building is the fact that it still stands.

Casa de La Llotja has had many lives. It started as a stock exchange in the 1300s. During Philip V's Siege of Barcelona during the War of Spanish Succession, the building was heavily damaged and used as a military barracks. Restoration and improvement began in 1774 and Free School of Design was founded, This became the School of Arts and Crafts of Barcelona (known as Escuela de la Lonja) (http://www.llotja.cat/llotja/p/1/737/0/Inici) and the Royal Catalan Academy of Fine Arts of San Jorge (https://www.racba.org/). The School of Arts and Crafts of Barcelona is where Pablo Picasso attended when his family moved to Barcelona. Today, it holds the Chamber of Commerce of Barcelona (https://www.cambrabcn.org/)

Strolling the arcade

Looking toward the Central Post Office (left) (https://www.correos.es/ss/Satellite/site/pagina-inicio/sidioma=en_GB) and the Office of University Access (right) (http://universitats.gencat.cat/ca/contacte/seus-territorials-de-loficina-dacces-a-la-universitat/barcelona/)

Entrance into the Picasso Museum of Barcelona (http://www.museupicasso.bcn.cat/en/)

If you love Picasso or you're an artist, this is a great place to visit. Many pieces from his formative years are part of the collection. And it continues with artworks with a myriad of subjects and media through every stage of his life. Picasso was a vocal opponent of Fascist dictator Francisco Franco. It took a lot of political finesse just to create this museum under his oppressive regime. Picasso vowed never to return to Spain while the Fascists remain in power. Unfortunately, Picasso passed away in exile two years before Franco's death.

El Cap de Barcelona (Head of Barcelona) by Roy Lichtenstein for the 1992 Summer Olympics. Lichtenstein, known more for his comic book paintings, used mosaic tiles to pay homage to local artist Antoni Gaudi.

Taking a break resting our weary legs in Plaça de la Barceloneta in front of Parròquia de Sant Miquel del Port

Wandering the streets and boulevards of the Barceloneta

After a long upstate New York winter, enjoying the sun on the beach was very invigorating. Even if it was just a bit too cold to swim.

Platja de la Barceloneta (Barceloneta Beach) looking toward the famous sail shaped W Hotel (https://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/bcnwh-w-barcelona/)

Try to imagine an industrial area full of old factories and warehouses. All the rust and pollution. And active railroad tracks that ran along the sea. That's what this area was like before the 1992 Summer Olympics redevelopment. It went from being the least attractive parts of the city to an incredible site. And the sand? It's imported from Egypt.

Peix Olímpic (Olympic Fish) by Frank Gehry (https://www.hotelartsbarcelona.com/en/)was a part of the beach areas redevelopment for the 1992 Summer Olympics. And it's massive. It's about 115 feet tall and 184 feet long. So, you certainly see it from a distance. And Opium Barcelona (https://opiumbarcelona.com/) is a night club/restaurant. Not a trendy pharmacy...

Torre de les Aigües was constructed as a private water tower for nearby homes in 1867

Estàtua eqüestre del general Prim (Equestrian statue of General Prim) greets us at the entrance of Parc de la Ciutadella (Citadel Park). When Philip V captured Barcelona after the War of Spanish Succession, he wanted to maintain that control. So, he destroyed the neighborhood causing mass homelessness, forced Catalans into slavery for three years, and heavily taxed residents to build a fortress on this site. In 1869, General Prim turned the fortress over to Catalan leaders who had the fort razed for this park.

Font de la cascada was constructed in 1881 without many of the details and sculptures we see today. When it was completed, it was heavily criticized for its blandness. So, this was followed by six years of construction adding all the elements we see today.

View from top of Font de la cascada

Sonia Rescalvo Zafra left ran away from her small town at 16 because she was a transsexual. She performed many odd jobs and was briefly a part of stage theater. But, in 1991, transsexuals were repressed and outlawed from most of public and political life. So, at 45 years of age, Sonia was excluded from jobs, fell into deep poverty, and was sleeping on the streets.

On October 6, 1991, Sonia and her friend Dori were sleeping in Parc de la Ciutadella when six right-wing men arrived for the sole purpose of beating up homosexuals and transgender people. These fascists formed a circle to kick Sonia and Dori with their steel toed boots. This was followed by attacking a one-eyed homeless man, Miguel, and leaving them all for dead. Dori somehow survived. Miguel lost his only eye. But Sonia passed away. She was so violently beaten and bruised that she was first reported as being a black person.

This incident changed Barcelona citizens views about discrimination. The city council was forced to change their policies toward the LGTBQ community, their ability to exercise their rights, and established a Special Prosecutor to enforce these laws.

In memory of Sonia, this gazebo was renamed Glorieta de la Transsexual Sònia.

Ornate street lamps with benches

The Arc de Triomf (Arch of Triumph) which was the main entrance gate to the 1888 Barcelona World Fair

Josep Llimona's frieze Recompensa showing the fair's participants receiving awards.

After a full day of exploring Barcelona, we indulged in a wonderful meal at Onofre (http://www.onofre.net). This is just some of the delicacies we were treated to that evening.

Now we're exploring the Eixample. "Eixample" is Catalan for "expansion" and was built in the 19th and 20th century. This expansion was designed by Ildefons Cerdà in a reaction to the ancient and medieval old town. Instead of narrow streets, the Eixample has wide boulevards. Rather than winding old town streets based on animal paths, the Eixample is on a simple grid. And all the schools, hospitals, markets, and churches are places so everyone, no matter class, race, or creed, has equal access to amenities. Also, the interior of every block is designed to have private parks for the residents. Finally, the buildings on every intersection have their corners chopped off creating the effect of spacious plazas.

Cines Comedia (http://yelmocines.es/cartelera/barcelona/yelmo-cines-comedia) was constructed as a single-family mansion for the Planas family. It was converted into a live theatre in 1941. Then a movie theater in 1960. In 1983, the movie theater was subdivided into several smaller movie theaters.

The interior section of one of the blocks was filled in with these sweet homes/businesses on Passatge Permanyer.

Jardins de la Torre de les Aigües is one of the many parks inside the block.

The open spaces of Jardins de la Torre de les Aigües

església ortodoxa grega

Orange trees bearing fruit in the cloisters of església ortodoxa grega

Mercat de la Concepció (https://www.laconcepcio.cat/en/home)

Conservatori Municipal de Música de Barcelona (Municipal Conservatory of Barcelona) (https://ajuntament.barcelona.cat/conservatori/ca)

An old advertisement at Queviures Murrià (http://www.murria.cat/murria.php?id=0&lang=ca) gourmet grocery store promoting something with a lady and a monkey.